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Wallpaper Tips
How to Remove Wallpaper
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Using a scoring tool, create perforations onto the wallpaper, this
will allow the wallpaper remover
to
penetrate through the wallpaper.
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Using
a 5-gallon bucket, mix the appropriate ratio of liquid wallpaper
remover and water.
- Use garden
sprayer to apply wallpaper stripper to wall or
Starting in a corner of the wall, use a sponge
to apply the remover mixture to a 4' X 4' area. Allow mixture to
soak on the surface for a minimum of
5 minutes. Do not allow to dry.
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A
wallpaper steamer can be used in replace of a liquid remover
to remove stubborn wallpaper.
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Begin
peeling back a corner of the wallpaper.
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Working in 4' X 4' sections, continue to remove loosened wallpaper.
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The
use of a wallpaper scraper can be used to loosen stubborn sections.
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If
paper backing remains after these steps, continue wetting with the
remover until all paper backing has
been
eliminated.
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To
remove any remaining glue, apply liquid wallpaper remover to the
surface, working in 4' x 4' sections.
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Allow
to set for a minimum of 5 minutes. Do not allow to dry.
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Using
a scrub brush, scrub the surface to loosen the remaining glue.
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Rinse
to remove solution and glue residue with a water-dampened sponge or
rag.
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Any
glue or paper not removed will cause cracking or flaking when paint
is applied.
How to Apply Wallpaper
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Cut
your paper to the correct length and roll it up loosely.
- Soak the paper
for a few seconds in a small trough of water. The water will
activate the adhesive, but it
can also wash the adhesive off so move quickly.
- If you don't have a trough, simply lay the paper on a clean table,
pattern-side down, and dampen
the pre-pasted side with a wet sponge or brush.
- Fold one edge of the dampened paper upward, laying the end
carefully at about the midpoint of the
paper. Do the same on the other side.
- Fold the two halves against each other, taking care not to crease
the paper. This step is called
"booking."
It keeps the paper moist, keeps the paste from dribbling onto
the floor and keeps the pasted
surface clean.
- Set the paper aside in a clean spot for no more than 5 minutes
before hanging it.
- Be a
clean freak: As soon as each strip of wallpaper is booked and set
aside, use a clean, wet
sponge to
clean the table.
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Start
in a corner near a door. If the door is far from the corner, draw a
reference line parallel to the
door
near the corner.
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Unfold
the top of the booked paper and hang it on the wall. Overlap about 2
inches at the ceiling
and 1/8
inch in the corner.
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Lightly press it in place.
- Unfold the
bottom of the book and let it hang. Check the measurement between
the paper and the
door casing or reference line. Adjust the paper to keep it
parallel to the door but still overlapping at
least 1/2 inch in the corner.
- Once
the sheet is aligned, use the edge of a paper smoother to tuck the
paper into the corner at the
ceiling. Then, working from the top down, sweep the smoother over
the entire sheet.
(Don't
press so hard that you push out glue.)
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Trim the excess paper at the ceiling: Push a 6-inch taping
knife into the joint between the wall and
ceiling. Using a razor, cut above the knife to trim off
the excess. Work slowly. Alternate between
cutting and moving the knife. Do not slide the razor and knife
together. Continue papering to a
point above the door.
- On
the adjacent wall, draw a plumb line (if there's no door or window).
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Hang a
strip in the corner. Overlap the existing piece on the adjacent wall
by 1/8 inch. Measure to the
plumb line and adjust the paper to keep the distance equal. Smooth
the paper. Trim at the ceiling and
trim
the corner.
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Hang
the next strip of paper. Unfold the top of the book and place it on
the wall. Match the pattern
as
closely as possible, leaving just a hair between the sheets.
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Push
air bubbles out by sweeping the paper smoother from the center out
to the edges. Wipe off paste
on the
surface with a sponge.
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Lightly press the top of the paper to the wall. Then lightly roll
the seam with a seam roller to flatten
down
the edges. Now use the tips of your fingers to push the seam closed.
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Unfold
the bottom of the sheet and finish matching and closing the seam.
Then tightly roll down the
entire
seam, working a full 3 inches in from the edge. This locks the seam,
keeping it from opening as
you
smooth the paper.
- Smooth the whole sheet. Continue papering the room, overlapping
and trimming corners as shown in.
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If the
booked end of the strip starts to dry out before you hang it, wipe
the wall with a damp sponge.
This
will remoisten the paste when you hang the paper.
- Cut-In at
doors and windows, let the paper overlap the molding by at least an
inch.
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Using
a razor, make a relief cut in the paper. Run the razor from the
molding corner out to the edge of
the
paper. Use molding as a guide.
- Press the cut edge tight in the joint between the molding and the
wall.
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Trim
the excess paper flap with a taping knife and razor, ABOVE. Smooth
down the whole sheet.
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Hide
small cutting errors on darker papers by coloring the wall or the
white edge of the paper with a
marker
that matches the paper. Some pros even color all the paper's edges
so seams are not as
evident should the paper shrink as it dries.
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Paper
the cover plates of electrical fixtures to make them disappear. Cut
a piece of wallpaper larger
than the
plate. Cut from the part of the pattern that matches the paper on
the wall around the switch.
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Apply
paste to the plate, then lay it face down on the paper. Hold them
both on the wall and adjust
the paper
to match the pattern on the wall.
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Hold
the paper and turn the plate face down. Cut off the corners 1/8 inch
away from the plate. Wrap
the
paper over the plate and tape it on, above.
- Cut out the
switch or receptacle holes with a razor. Make Xs at the screw holes.
Screw the plates
back on the wall.
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